Chuck 2.0! Our New Overlander Trailer Sleeper Build

If you have read any of our previous posts, or watched any of our YouTube videos, you know a couple of years ago we built an Overland Trailer to haul all of our camping gear, which we affectionately came to call Chuck.

Chuck offered many great amenities including a water system that could hook up to city water at a campground or feed off a 20 gallon water tank. The water system included a sink and sprayer. Chuck also had operational power from a 12 volt Deep Cycle Marine battery. This battery powered a series of camp lights, the water pump, an Iceco 12v fridge and more. The battery itself was set up to charge either by a battery charger that connected to shore power at a campground, and also from a device that keeps it topped off when the trailer is plugged into a vehicle.

Chuck was great! But we quickly learned that by having all the available space for camping gear, we would end up bringing WAY too much stuff. We had to simplify. The solution? Chuck 2.0!

To build Chuck 2.0, I completely demoed Chuck down to the frame to offer a fresh start and then began to build it back up. Again, using 2×3 construction and bolting the bottom 2×3 plate to frame for added stability.

I knew I was also going to want to incorporate a “star gazing” window on the front that would allow for more natural light then just the doors and roof vent would provide. This image shows that framed out.

Next, it was time to frame the walls and roof. I had already picked out the doors I would be using, so I knew what my rough opening were. This is a very important step, you really need to know the rough openings for any doors and windows you will be incorporating before you begin framing or you’ll end up having to get creative with adding them in later.

Here is my rough opening for the tear drop style door I will be using. We decided to have a door on each side and I HIGHLY recommend that in your build if two people will be sleeping it. It’s great to each be able to get out without having to crawl over each other.

Once I had my walls framed out, it was time to frame out the back portion. This is also tricky. You have limited space to use, so it’s important to think about what you need and how things should be laid out for maximum efficiency and use.

For our kitchen, I knew I wanted to have a sink (running water off grid is a true luxury!) as well as wire in our 12 volt Iceco fridge. Of course, we would also need some cabinets or shelving to put cookware, utensils, etc., and I also wanted it to be well lit and potentially have a speaker (more on the speaker in a bit).

With the initial framing complete, it was then time to add sheathing. For this, I used 1/2″ exterior grade plywood. I also used clear silicone at all seams as an added level of water protection.

Water is going to be the hardest element to keep out of your DIY overlander trailer build, so you need to take extra care wherever possible to prevent even the slightest bit getting in.

From there, I decided to add some Tyvek for yet another barrier to elements. I am not sure this totally necessary, but since contractors use it when building houses, I figured why not! Once I had it wrapped, I installed the doors and window. These went in relatively easy, since my rough openings were correct. I also used flashing tape around the perimeters and then spray foamed any larger gaps to help keep it as air tight as possible.

One other thing that is truly a MUST! Definitely incorporate a 12 volt fan into your build. This particular model goes both directions offering both intake and outtake which can really cool it down inside when it’s hot or provide exceptional air flow on intake when the doors windows are open. It’s easy to install and worth every cent. Check it out here on Amazon. Also, as I side note, if you are worried about leaving it open on accident, when it rains. They do make models that auto close when they sense water.

For the exterior, I decided to go with T1-11 siding. It’s thin and light weight and came in a finished gray color, which I thought looked pretty good. Again, once I had it fastened, I went through a second time and applied silicone to all the seams and screw heads where I had fastened it. I also adding a TON of silicone around the doors, window, and roof vent.

I knew I wanted to trim all my seams with something, but I just couldn’t figure out a solution. Finally, decided to use 4″ wide waterproof Gorilla tape. Not only did it adhere to the T1-11 well, but it also provides another moisture barrier on all my seams. Also noticeable in this photo are the two exterior camp lights I added. These are switch operated, with each light having it’s own switch built into the light.

Above those are marine speakers. These are wired to a receiver in the back kitchen. I also wired a speaker into the cabin and one in the back kitchen. If you like listening to music, definitely consider this upgrade! Here they are on Amazon.

Moving to the inside. I used 1/2″ foam board insulation between all my studs and on the bottom to provide extra comfort whether it’s hot or cold out. I had a bunch of old pallets lying around and decided to repurpose them as the cabin walls to give Chuck 2.0 a rustic feel on the inside.

For the ceiling I used “Utility” panels that I picked up at Lowes. Finally, I wired in 6 mini 12 volt recessed lights, 3 on one side (as pictured) and 3 on the other. Each side is controlled by it’s own touch switch that can also dim the lights as needed.

The blue circle light illuminates the light switch. These are pretty cool. You simply touch the switch and the lights turn on or off. If you keep your finger on the switch, the lights dim. Plus, they have built in memory, so whatever the dim setting was when you turn them off, will be the setting when you turn them back on. Click here to view them on Amazon.

I also wired in a charging station on each side. The port offer both a USB and lightening port (see on Amazon).

Next, it was time to build out the bed. I found a great company online that will customize a mattress for whatever size you want. So I didn’t have to worry about building the interior to meet a predefined mattress size. As is, it came out to just 2″ shy of a full queen, which is pretty amazing. Also, the way I designed this, and the way teardrop campers are designed, allows for your feet to go under the kitchen cabinet space. I am 6’3″ and when I lay in the cabin, neither my head nor my feet touch the ends. It’s deceptively spacious on the inside.

For the bed frame, I used 1×4″ laid over 2×3″. This provide great air flow and additional sleeping comfort.

Here is pretty much the finished interior. Overall, it came out very well, and is extremely comfortable! There is not too much I would change, but I will address that at the end of this post.

And here is the finished kitchen! I used the same 15×15″ rv sink I had in the original Chuck. Using some left over plywood, I also created a cover for the sink for when it is not in use to provide additional useable counter space.

Like the original Chuck, Chuck 2.0 is set up for both city water (campground hook ups), or off grid. However, this time I left off the water tank. To be honest, it was a total pain to fill and clean. This set up offer a switch operated water pump (hidden by the curtain under the sink) that has a hose attached that can be inserted into any Jerry can or water container. Turn the pump on, and you have running water in the sink and the sprayer located on the exterior side.